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Getting Started

New to 3D printing molds? See the below tips and tricks and you'll be well on your way to success to 3D print your own molds!

Tips and Tricks

Recommended slicer: Orca, Bambu Slicer

 

Recommended Filaments in order from most recommended to least:

  1. Polycarbonate

  2. Polycarbonate / PETG blend. (most cheap polycarbonate filaments are 50/50 blends)

  3. ASA / ABS

  4. PET

  5. PETG

  6. Annealed PLA

  7. PLA (HT-PLA has not been tested, but based on the heat deflection temperature in MDS sheets, theoretically it may out perform ABS / ASA filaments)

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*PPS filament should be the best consumer grade filament out there for these molds based on its outstanding heat resistant properties, but is cost prohibitive and requires a hot end capable of reaching at least 320 C.

Fiber filled filaments:

Carbon fiber or glass filled filaments can be used, but the plastisol has a tendency to stick to fibers in the filament. However, they can be used if the mold is sprayed with worm oil or vegetable oil, such as canola oil. It is generally recommended to spray all molds with oil prior to use. This will reduce flashing and pro-long mold life. PET, PETG, and ASA may stick to the plastisol as well and it is recommended to spray these materials as well.

Recommended print settings:

 

  • Default Ocra / Bambu slicer filament settings for your printer

  • .4 Nozzle

  • 0.2 layer height

  • Print canisters for 8 cavity canister mold system at 99.5% scale

    • Print canisters vertically, not flat on face

    • May need to use brim if you have issues with bed adhesion. More of an issue with bed slinger style printers.

  • Polycarbonate, ASA/ABS, PET:

    • 5 walls

    • 10% hexagonal infill

    • 2mm top and bottom shell thickness

    • All other settings can be default

  • PETG, Annealed PLA, PLA:

    • 7 walls

    • 10% hexagonal infill

    • 3mm top and bottom shell thickness

    • All other settings can be default

* PLA Molds can be annealed for pro-longed life. Annealing PLA will cause the material to grow in the Z axis and shrink in the X/Y axis. For the 8 canister mold system, print the 8 canister system with the normal above settings, and then print the canisters at 100% X/Y scale and 68mm in the Z axis. (non-uniform scale).

Post processing:

  • Tape a 8x11 inch sheet of 120 grit sandpaper and another sheet of 400 grit sandpaper to a flat surface, such as a counter-top, smooth concrete floor, glass plate, etc. with blue painters tape.

  • Sand mating faces of all molds with 120 grit sandpaper and then 400 grit sandpaper. The amount of sanding needed will depend on how well your printer, prints.

  • Sand molds until you can hold the mating faces of the molds up to a light source and see no visible air gap in-between the mold faces.

    • Sanding will drastically reduce or completely eliminate flashing in the molds, and is a necessary step in order to get the best lure quality from 3D printed molds.

  • The 8 cavity canister mold uses 1/4-20 1.5 inch screws / nuts. Other molds use M3 screws / nuts. Nuts should be heat set into the molds by screwing the nut onto the end of the screw, heating the nut with a heat gun or candle, and then pressed into the hexagonal holes in the mold.

Improving mold life:

 

  • PPS molds will have the longest longevity, but is difficult to print and expensive.

  • Polycarbonate will have superior longevity to any other commonly available material that is capable of easily being printed on most enclosed consumer grade printers.

  • PET / PET-CF filament is the best consumer grade filament for longevity that can be printed on a non-enclosed printer.

  • Spraying molds with oil with each injection will improve mold life.

  • Allowing time for molds to cool in-between injections will improve mold life.

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